I turned 40 last year. Son of a bitch! It was not met favorably. I have no desire to be older and wiser. That’s something defeated people say.
But it was happening whether I liked it or not.
Luckily, my parents and Doug softened the blow by gifting me a wonderful vacation abroad. I was ecstatic and grateful but mostly excited to plan out where I wanted to go. After weighing our options, we settled on Paris. Neither Doug nor I had ever been and who wouldn’t want to visit the city of love?!
So it was settled…until Doug gave me a mischievous grin and said, “I have another idea.”
He. Suggested. We. Run. With. The. Bulls. In. Pamplona.
“What better way to spit at forty in the face?!”
Bam!
A few months later, we were on a plane headed to Spain. After a few relaxing days in Barcelona, we took the train to Pamplona. Straight into the San Fermin Festival. Eight days of drinking sangria, bullfights in the evening and, of course, the running of the bulls every morning at 8 a.m.
Our original plan was to watch the run first. Determine some sort of game plan, get an idea as to how dangerous this event really is.
Nah, screw that. We both recognized that watching the run would probably scare us out of doing it. And we didn’t just travel thousands of miles to puss out last minute. There would be no watching first. We were all in.
It’s not like we were going in totally blind. My brother in law had put us in touch with a buddy of his who ran a few years earlier. He and I exchanged a few messages and we got great tips. One of which probably saved us from being trampled to death. (I find that to be a helpful tip.)
The morning of the run we woke up after just a few hours of sleep. We put on our white shirt, white pants and red scarves and headed out to the city center.
And read the rules:
Uh, that’s it. These are the guidelines to follow when running along side 14 scared, sometimes pissed off, bulls along a street road the width of my kitchen.
Super.
The first thing we did was walk down to the beginning of the race to see where the bulls were being penned. They looked “normal” enough until they turn to snort at you in contempt. Doug and I just started laughing. “What in the HELL are we doing?!”
We could be on the Eiffel Tower right now.
The run lasts for just two and a half minutes from the time they release the bulls to the time they are corralled in the bullring so the trick is to find a spot that is safe but also gives you the most time to run along side them. My brother in law’s friend warned us about the “corner of death”.
Hence where he saved our lives. We thought we had found a good spot along the course. “If we stand here, we can see the bulls come up around the bend.” We stood there for a hot second until we realized we were standing literally in the worst possible place ever. The Corner of Death, of course.
We crossed the street and moved down about thirty feet.
There are three horns that go off during the run. The first horn lets the runners know that they should start running. And by running, I mean, hauling ass. The second horn lets the runners know that the bulls have been released from the pen and that they are coming. (a.k.a. when you pee yourself a little). The last horn tells you that all the bulls have been corralled in the ring and the race is over.
We took our mark and we waited. Laughing. “What the HELL are we doing?!”
The first horn blew. Doug and I started running at “normal” pace, determined to stay together the whole time. The second horn blew and all hell broke loose.
First of all, you go from running a ten minute mile to a three minute mile. I was like a Kenyan sprinter and not by choice. You either kept up or you were trampled by people. Thank God for adrenaline. Doug and I were split up immediately. I had no idea where he was.
Next you heard the yelling, the screaming of other runners. “Corre! Corre! Corre!” (Run!)
Then you heard the bulls.
The stomping of their hooves on the pavement and then the loud huffing of air through their nostrils. (I will never forget the sounds. Ever.)
At this point I was just frantically looking for a niche in the wall to jump into for safety., a door jamb to hide inside. While running a three minute mile. And dodging tons of other terrified runners. Like a human frogger.
Suddenly, I was slammed up against a wall. I turned my head and I could see a herd of angry, frightened bulls charge past me. Within just a few feet of my back. If I had stretched out my arm, I could have touched one.
The seconds felt like minutes. And then it was over.
My immediate concern was Doug. Where was he? Was he okay? I peeled myself off the wall and started running up the street. I found him a little farther up, perfectly fine. He had been jammed in with another group of runners, just ahead of me.
We were exhilarated. Flying from the adrenaline.
I would never do it again.
But it was one best days of my life.